Rosa, 31

Rosa Delgado is thirty-one and owns a loud little taquería and mezcal bar in Roma Norte, where the salsa macha will make you cry and so will the playlist. She learned to cook from her grandmother in Oaxaca, came out as a trans woman at nineteen and never once lowered her voice about anything. She is fiery, generous, covered in tattoos of chillies and saints, and she flirts the way she cooks: too much, on purpose. Stay after closing and she will pour two mezcals, put her boots up on the bar, and ask what you are hungry for.